Marc Jacobs just showed his latest collection, full of dressed-up sportswear inspired by hip hop, for fall 2017. Jacobs wrote in the show notes:
Several months ago I watched a documentary called, “Hip-Hop Evolution.” The 4-part series chronicles the poignant and pivotal cultural movement that reshaped and redefined the landscape of music, which gave way to a whole new language of style.
As a born and bred New Yorker, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design when I began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style. This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear. It is an acknowledgement and gesture of respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth culture street style.
Staged in the Park Avenue Armory, models walked the very long length of the venue past attendees who sat in two single rows (and weren’t allowed to snap photos during the show), then straight out the door and onto the street, where photographers were waiting.
Of the staging, Jacobs’ show notes explain, “The show itself is a simple presentation of all these thoughts culminating in an urban landscape documented by legendary New York photographer Joel Meyerowitz.”
Of the clothes themselves, Jacobs said, “With a palette focused on the warm neutral colors camel, ginger, brown, gold, red, maroon and silhouettes borrowed from casual attire and sportswear, dressing for ‘everyday’ is as simple as a coat over a dress, a sweater with pants or the casual polish of a track suit.”
He described the accessories as “casual and practical,” and the shoes―which included mid-calf leather boots and super-high platformed loafers―as ranging from “rustic to smart.”
“Pumped up hats by Stephen Jones take their cues from the haberdashery and elegance of Andre 3000,” Jacobs wrote of the headgear most of his models wore.
The jewelry was a collaboration with Urs Fischer: “Amped up gold jewelry provides the glam and celebrates my collaboration with artist Urs Fischer whose charming, sculpted and gilded mice pendants swing from heavy gold chains.”
Backstage, before the show, lead makeup artist Diane Kendall explained that Jacobs had been inspired by documentary The Evolution of Hip Hop. “All the girls kind of are kind of individual,” she said, citing a trend that’s gained traction over the past few seasons. “I was there when he [Jacobs] was doing the fittings, and so we looked at the girl when she was dressed and decided, ‘Oh she’d look good with a mouth, she’d look good with an eye,’ just depending on their character. Some of them are more boyish, some are more sexy, everybody’s been individual.”
Those who wore lip pigment got a custom Bordeaux shade (Marc Jacbos Beauty Le Marc Creme Lipstick in Blacquer 000 and Marc Jacobs Lip Creme Lipstick in Blow 210). Lead hairstylist Guido followed last season’s controversial look by letting Stephen Jones’ Andre 3000 tribute hats do the talking. “I got an easy morning,” he said, leaving models’ hair mostly unchanged. “The hat is the main event.” Jin Soon Choi created seven different nail designs, giving some models long, square extensions in glossy maroon shades with gold detailing, while others wore short, buffed nails.
Once outside, the models walked the length of the sidewalk and then sat in folding chairs, watching the rest of the show and playing with their Marc Jacobs–encased cell phones―taking selfies and snapping pics of each other―until Marc himself appeared for the finale. The final act? Showgoers streamed out onto the sidewalk to finally take Instagram-worthy shots of the models while the models, of course, snapped right back.